Monday 20 November 2023

43 - End Fed Half Wave - Convenience over Performance

 

End Fed Half Wave? Convenience over Performance.?


Every antenna “Works”, you can make contacts… but how well???


I have found my end fed half wave to be a really convenient antenna, it covers all bands on HF although I use a little bit of my ATU on 2 or 3 bands just to improve it a bit. I like using my ATU as I can see the meters move and that tells me power is getting out. If I see the reverse power meter moving I know the wire has fallen down or something is wrong. I found a loose connection in my transformer box once so it is always a good idea to continually check how any antenna is behaving; not just the SWR but also is it hearing signals and are people hearing you.


So, I have been really happy with my EFHW and I set out to bag a hundred countries on FT8, just to see how it was performing. FT8 is particularly convenient because (a) you don’t have to talk to anyone and (b) linking the Gridtracker application to WSJT-X allows you to build up a map of who you worked, and you can click a button and quickly see who has heard your transmission. I feed my logging program Log4OM from Gridtracker and it gives a more detailed map of the station you’re working. A nice setup, although I am still learning… (always true!)


I had thought about repeating the 100 countries target on all bands to more fully test the antenna but currently have only used 17m. I also installed LOTW and use it to get confirmation. But I have come to some conclusions, even after only using 17m and thought I would share them with you.


The performance on 17m is a testament to the effectiveness of FT8. I have made many contacts and got my 100 countries in 5 or 6 weeks. I have only LOTW confirmations from 91 so far but have 115 in the log. I now spend little time on the band unless a new country comes up. I do call CQ occasionally as this is only fair to the other stations wanting Northern Ireland, it’s a bit immoral to just lurk on the bands and grabbing what you want without giving back.



The map in figure 1 shows the distribution of countries, and I was delighted to bag Alaska, New Caledonia and the Falklands of course. Note that a quirk in Gridtracker is that not all contacts are plotted, if you tail-end a station that has just sent RR73 instead of waiting for a CQ then Gridtracker will miss the gridsquare, but log the contact. I am not an experienced operator, although I suppose FT8 hides this from people.


I noticed that I had not many contacts from Norway, Canada or the African continent. Conclusions from data can be, well, inconclusive! I don’t how many hams were active in these countries but I “have a feeling” I should have picked up more. In hindsight I should have simultaneously monitored the online SDRs at http://websdr.org/ and http://kiwisdr.com/public/


So I got to thinking, the EFHW is really convenient for me, my shack is at one end of my property and feeding the antenna at its end is handy. Also a single thin wire is almost invisible and being inconspicuous is important, Shirley, my wife, runs an AirBnB cottage beside us and keeps an exceptional garden, not to be tarnished by ugly antennas.

Figure 1: Most of my FT8 contacts on 17m over a 6 week period (Yellow squares)


What is the performance of the EFHW on each of its bands? It is just a half wave antenna on 80m, albeit fed from the end. Once the current is in the wire it acts like a half wave dipole, the well known figure of eight, smeared out a bit because it is only at a height of 10m (probably 9m at the tips and drooping to 7m in the middle – I haven’t tensioned it very tightly). On the higher bands you get extra lobes, the easy to use antenna modelling package MMANA-GAL (from http://gal-ana.de/basicmm/en/ ) can plot these.


EFHWs can be difficult for modelling packages and it is important to add a small counterpoise of 8 feet or more so that the feedpoint works in the software, in real life I have a choke 8 feet or more down the coaxial feedline. In addition you have to change the feedline impedance in the software from 50 Ohms to a very high value, EFHWs use a 49 to 1 impedance transformer (with 7:1 turns ratio) so a value of 2450 Ohms is appropriate.


I won’t labour how to use MMANA-Gal here as I have used it in several other articles in Contact. The four main screens of the software include the “GEOMETRY” Tab which gives a table of measurements of the wires and the feedpoint, you can nearly visualise the antenna from this in the table in Figure 2. Note you should alter the 20m a bit to tune either the CW or SSB parts of each band, mine ended up as 132 feet, a few feet short but that is the length of my narrow garden.


Figure 2: Part of the “GEOMETRY” tab in MMANA-GAL

Figure 2 shows the “VIEW” tab which draws from the table in Figure 2.


Figure 3: The “VIEW” screen, you can rotate, pan and zoom this with your mouse.


The red dot is the feedpoint – described as W1B as it is at the beginning of wire 1


You use the “CALCULATE” tab to run the model on a particular frequency and it will give you its impedance and SWR as well as allow you to view the antenna’s directivity using the “FAR FIELD PLOT” tab. The calculate tab allows you to specify additional height, the type of earth and wire. I used no additional height as I had drawn the antenna as it is installed, I picked “real ground” and copper wire. If you want to run the model yourself and don’t want to draw it, save the lines in figure 4 as a text file with an .maa extension and just load them into MMANA-GAL


Figure 4: the text of the .maa file needed for MMANAN-GAL to work

Here are the results at different frequencies; figure 5 is for 80m (3.550MHz)




Figure 5: Plots for 3.55MHz (80m).


The right hand plot is from the side, you can move a cursor (red dot) around to see what the gain is at a particular take-off angle, at 20 degrees it is 0.9dBi. Actual gains do not matter except to compare with other parts of the plot, if you transmit 100W then a bit goes this way and a bit goes that way. You can slice the right hand plot and view it from above in the left hand plot- the default on the left hand plane is to show the view from above. The plot pane has an “ELEVATION” button to allow this. Take off angles are important, you get good DX at angles of 5 to 7 degrees. The plot varies as you raise the wires, so get your antenna up as high as you can – half a wavelength is great but only achievable on the higher bands unless you are very rich.




Figure 6: The 40m Band, note the null at the “waisted in” part of the plots


We can also display a 3D picture, although it is easier to see (and rotate!) when its on the PC screen rather than the paper here. Any stations that lie in the direction of the nulls might be 100 times weaker ( > -20dB )




Figure 7: The 17m band on a 80m EFHW (40m long!)


And a 3D plot at 17m;




Figure 8: a 3D plot at 17m for the 80m EFHW

Now, as my antenna runs SW-NE I can see that some of my nulls point at Norway and this explains why I get few contacts in that direction. I’ll keep the EFHW for convenience but I am now building a CobWeb out of thin fibreglass rod and thin wire to minimise visual pollution. I will use thin sprectra line to “stay” the rods. As a sailor, this is how we keep masts up in gales, I hope I can make a superlight weight Cobweb that is almost invisible when erected. I also have some bamboos and might make a clunky portable version. More later…


Ian, 73 de MI5AFL

Blog at http://MI5AFL.blogspot.com


References and Reading:

1 Online SDRs at http://websdr.org/ and http://kiwisdr.com/public/


2 MMANA-GAL (from http://gal-ana.de/basicmm/en/ )


3 Callum’s Youtube channel ( https://www.youtube.com/@m0mcx ) - look at his playlists for antenna modelling, he has three introductory videos there.


4 https://mmana.home.blog/ has some good examples, including a cobweb


5 https://sz1a.org/en/featured-articles/end-fed-half-wave-efhw-antenna-modeling-with-mmana-gal/ is an interesting read on modelling an inverted-V EFHW










Friday 3 November 2023

42 - Other ways to design Low pass Filters for HF use (spreadsheets)

A previous post discussed low pass filters and mentioned six methods of designing them. I covered method 1 and 2(a) in my last post. Here are notes on all six methods...

Method 1:  https://rf-tools.com/lc-filter/ is very very useful, together with the toroid coil turns calculator at http://toroids.info/ this are my main tools until recently when I wanted to investigate more thoroughly. 

Method 2(a). Elsie, ( http://tonnesoftware.com/elsie.html )

Other common design filter software is AADE ( at  http://www.ke5fx.com/aadeflt.htm ) or the PC software at http://www.alkeng.com/ and a number of tools that WEs Hayward included in his EMRFD book, sometimes included in the CDs that come with the ARRL or RSGB handbooks. My personal choices at present are to use the rf-tools website, the elsie software or the spreadsheet in 2(b),or my own written to generate more detailed LTspice circuits to play with.

Method 2(b) A spreadsheet written by Per Magnusson and described in his blog at https://axotron.se/blog/tool-for-designing-butterworth-and-chebyshev-filters/ is available for free download at the same address, he has kindly placed it in the public domain.  The really powerful convenience of the spreadsheet is that clicking a button generates a LTspice schematic (better layout than ELSIE)  I have a sophisticated set of commands for LTspice filter designs and I can quickly get what I need. It uses the table method which I investigated below.

From Per's spreadsheet. clicking the button generates an LTspice schematic

Automatically generated from PER's Spreadsheet

You can add all the .Measure commands given in my last post to experiment with this design, add Rser to the coils and capacitors to take the Q factor of real components into account and switch to standard value capacitors or combinations of 2 (or more) capacitors in parallel (typically) to get close to the theoretical values above. It does require Microsoft excel and macros and I tend to use libreoffice, I may convert Pers macros to ones that tun under Libreoffice some day...

Now, I did not realise at first that Pers spreadsheet actually calculated its own tables from scratch and I assumed it was just using lookup tables, so I set about learning how to work out the filters from the raw mathematics. This was a journey that took me some time but was satisfying (in the end!)

The theory behind designing filters allows the use of a calculator. You'll need a scientific calculator, and if it doesn't have cosh functions you'll need a few extra formulae to get around that.

cosh(x) = 1/2(e^x + e^-x)   and Cosh-1(x) = ln(x +/- Sqrt(x^2-1)

I got the theory from a book "Introduction to Radio Frequency Design" by Wes Hayward, W7ZOI, my copy is a 1996 edition and I have misplaced the software that came with the book, but he outlines the equations in Chapter 2, Page 62, I list his equation numbers below page numbers are for my first edition. (Pers also lists references with page numbers in the documentation part of his spreadsheet)

For a 1 Ohm, Butterworth filter components are given by G(k) = 2 SIN(2k-1)* PI/2N where k=1,2..n WEs describes this as equation 2.7-4 on page 61

For the Chebychev, a bit more work is needed. You need to take into account the passband ripple factor E and calculate Chebychev polynomials for the particular order you are designing for.

The ripple factor E=sqrt[10^(R/10)  -  1] where R is the ripple in dB  Eqn 2.7-8/P62

The transfer function H(jw) = SQRT (  1/[1 + E^2 * Cn(w)^2 ]  )       Eqn 2.7-6/p62

Where Cn(w) = cos(n * cos-1(w)) ;w<1 (passband)                             Eqn 2.7-7/P62

Where Cn(w) = cosh(n * cosh-1(w)) ;w>1 (stopband)                         Eqn 2.7-7/P62

To work out component values, Wes replaced the COSH functions with their e equivalents which is handier on most calculators.

d=A/8.68589   Eqn 2.7-11 where A is the passband ripple in dB

B=1/2n * ln [  (e^d + 1)/(e^d-1)]     Eqn 2.7-12    B0=2nB     Eqn 2.7-13  N=1/2(e^B-e^-B) Eqn 2.7-14

ak=sin[  (  (2k-1)Pi)/2n ] ,  bk= N^2  + sin^2(kw/n) ;k=1,2...n  Eqns 2.7-15 and -16 /Page 64

The gk values of the components is then found from g1 = 2a1/N    Eqn 2.7-17/P64

and gk= (4a{k-1}ak)/b{k-1}g{k-1})    Eqn 2.7-18/Page 64 curly braces are for subscripts


I tested these equations in my own spreadsheet -Method 2(c)

Look at the files section of this blog for a link to my google drive for this

Method 3: The GQRP club website has example designs at https://www.gqrp.com/Datasheet_W3NQN.pdf

Here is a screenshot

https://www.gqrp.com/Datasheet_W3NQN.pdf and see QST Feb 1999

Method 4: Using tables that are based on 1 Ohm and 1 Radian/Second frequency (0.159Hz) and scaling them up -to 50 Ohms and as many MHz as you need. - a simple multiplication and division. Note there are some tables about that are scaled to 1MHz or even 1HZ so follow the instructions that come with your tables. There is one Butterworth table (if input and output impedances are the same) but there are separate tables for each degree of ripple in a Chebyshev design so pick the right table. There are also tables that allow for the source, driving impedance to be different to the terminating impedance. I prefer to design a 50 Ohm in and 50 Ohm out filter, add an impedance changing section and merge the various components.

Here are two screenshots of a Butterworth table and the scaling calculations as well as the final values


Again, the file is in my google drive - accessible from the pages section of this blog

In practice I just use the RF-Tools website, Elsie and Per's or my own spreadsheets!

To conclude, here are a list of references and bibliography I found and read!

[1] EMRFD, Experimental Methods in Radio Frequency Design, by Wes Hayward (Author), Rick Campbell (Author), Bob Larkin (Author) I have the first edition, there is a second. This was the most valuable resource, everyone should have a copy of this book!

[2] RF Design Basics by  John Fielding, ZS5JF has a good chapter on Filters.

[3] ARRL Handbook, older editions are more detailed

[4] RSGB Handbook, The older editions are better as they cover the table method, modern versions just say " use online or downloadable tools"

[5] Zveverev's "Handbook of Filter Synthesis" I was able to download a copy from https://ia803101.us.archive.org/20/items/HandbookOfFilterSynthesis/Handbook%20of%20Filter%20Synthesis.pdf so I assume it is out of copyright. It is a Wiley book, dated 1967. This book contains all the tables that more modern books quote. It is a heavy read but a good reference.

[6] Part 1 and Part 2 of Design of Microwave filters, impedance matching networks and coupling structures Volume 1 and 2 by G.L. Matthaei, Leo Young and E.M.T. Jones, available from download from https://www.microwaves101.com/uploads/MYJ-part-1.pdf

[7] G3OTK, Richard Harris's 9 part series of articles at Itchen Valley Amateur Radio club  https://www.ivarc.org.uk/uploads/1/2/3/8/12380834/1_filter_article_version_2.pdf





41 - Design and Analysis of Low Pass Filters (Copy of part 2 of an Article for CONTACT )

Designing and Analysing Low Pass Filters for RF (HF) use Part 2: MI5AFL

Method 1: https://rf-tools.com/lc-filter/ is very very useful, together with the toroid coil turns calculator at http://toroids.info/ or coil64.exe from http://coil32.net ) for air-cored coils, these are my main tools until recently when I wanted to investigate more thoroughly.

Here is an example screenshot: There is a simple graphical plot of performance and cursors that allow moving around the graphs - I prefer to copy the circuit over to LTspice to investigate whether 5% or 2% capacitors are needed, to try standard values and to play with the Q of the coils, etc.,



Above is a screenshot of the RF-Tools.com design tool, it plots the amplitude response - the plot of attenuation with frequency is called S21. It also plots, in red, the return loss or S11 figures in dB - this is related to the VSWR or how well the filter matches to 50 Ohms. I usually redraw the circuit in Ltspice and simulate in detail there - moving the cursor about on the RF-tool is tedious and I am well practiced in how to use LTspice effectively. I will cover the LTspice simulation after discussing Elsie.

Method 2: Elsie, (from http://tonnesoftware.com )it took me a while to get familiar with this software but once I had the hang of it, I found it useful. I was particularly interested in designing a filter for the 40m band that had around 35dB of second harmonic rejection (which since I was using a push-pull amplifier I expected a further 15 to 20 dB from the balanced nature of that circuit) and I also wanted at least 50dB rejection at 21MHz - the third harmonic. I also wanted good SWR (Return loss) at the input, assuming 50 Ohm.

To use ELSIE you click on a couple of screens; first hit the DESIGN button and fill in a form, note the software describes the corner frequency Fc as the ripple bandwidth - technically correct since a LPF starts at zero and goes to the corner frequency for its passband, hence the ripple bandwidth is the “passband”. After hitting the design button click the ANALYSIS button to set the parameters for the plot - the start and end frequency. You can set the Q of the coils and capacitors and the reference impedance for VSWR method - I set this to 50 Ohms.



Now click on the SCHEMATIC button to see the circuit diagram, complete with calculated values. I usually click on the “show Q-Value resistances as I may use these values in LTspice later.



Click on the PLOT button to get a useful plot. click the second icon down on the left hand side to get both S21 and S11. I also set 7 Markers and clicked the markers menu item to show them, they are very useful.

This is bit hard to see so here is a zoom in to the Marker results at the foot of the diagram above.


The yellow boxes show interesting stuff. We optimise these by moving Fc up and down a bit, if we can’t meet our specifications we go back and change the order from 5 to 7. The markers below are for a 7.45MHz Fc and 0.1dB ripple, 5th order. It is the result of my experimenting with Elsis and has the lowest insertion loss with a reasonable harmonic rejection. I used a design Q of 200 for the coils and 2000 for the Capacitors. Later I changed the Q to 290 and 10,000


Since good (big) return loss coincides with lowest insertion loss you can see how optimisation works by imagining the 1 to 5 markers on the red graph sliding downwards into the trough.


The nice thing about ELSIE is that if you nip back and make a change to the design data, the plot and the markers change immediately, you can go back and forward experimenting very quickly to get what you need. Here, I see the VSWR is below 1.09 and the insertion loss is less than 0.16dB which is about 1.7%. (see http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-db.htm ) The harmonics are 32dB and 51 dB down so all is good enough. I also tried 7.2MHZ and 7.25MHZ but 7.45 is the best compromise. LTspice gets better figures after I design the air cored coils (15mm former and 1.2mm wire at 2.4mm spacing gives a Q or 290 according to Coil64.exe)

Finally if you click the WRITE button you get the option to write an LTspice .ASC file which is what LTspice uses. You can save it and then launch LTspice and load it as is, but I prefer to add some extra commands to the LTspice schematic as you'll see below. I usually run three different simulations, the first confirms the results above, I then “design” the inductors using Coil64.exe and this gives a computed Q and RESR value, I modify the capacitors to standard values and edit the LTspice schematic and re-simulate to check the performance. Finally I use the Gaussian and, lately, Worst case simulations to vary the component tolerances see how careful I need to make the filter. (see the October 2020 issue of the CONTACT magazine for details of using the Gaussian formulas)

To use Ltspice effectively you need to know how to use .MEASURE text commands. Also there is a choice as to how to display S21 and S11. There is a .NET command but Wes showed a “trick” on his website ( https://w7zoi.net/Extract-sp.pdf ) of how to add S11 and S21 labels directly to the schematic – this just makes plotting a bit quicker so it what I use.

It uses a voltage source with an internal resistance of 50 Ohms and a driving voltage of 2 volts, this gets divided to 1 volt at the actual input to the filter and so the output voltage gives us S21 directly ( the gain is Vout/Vin and Vin is ‘1’). Likewise subtracting one volt from the actual input means that what is left is what gets reflected back from the filter. So the second voltage source gives us the reflected voltage, again this scales by ‘1’ to give us S11 directly. We add a one GigaOHM resistor in series with this subtracting voltage to avoid distorting the results.

We can use LTspice for simple plots, and then alter the capacitances to preferred values.


A more advanced use of LTspice is to show how the performance varies as components vary. You can do multiple simulations with each value set at its worst case or you can vary a value thousands of times between its worst case values, a 2% capacitor can be between 98% and 102% of its nominal value. Here is the spread of performance values after 2000 simulations.

You can't know which component variations causes which value but it looks like it should be alright, you can estimate by eye the chances of your physical circuit meeting the specification. It should convince you that you should never make a filter without (a) checking the values of the components before soldering them in and (b) to check the performance of the completed filter. Thank goodness for the NanoVNA, £50 well spent – get one!

I have found a new, better way to perform an analysis. It is much quicker to pick the worst case extremities of each component and just analyse this, for 5 components there are 32 possible combinations of each component being too high, or being too low (at the limit of its tolerance, +/-2% or +/-5% ). An application note by Analog Devices shows a technique using two one-line functions to iterate through all 32 cases. It uses a 5 bit binary number and we can work backwards to see what component combinations give a particular result. This is important as it opens the opportunity to “tune” a filter to be better than its calculated performance.

The diagram below gives the LTspice schematic the result of plotting the values calculated by the .MEASURE statements against the run number. We can convert the run number into a 5 bit binary number and work out what component values cause what results.


Run numbers 8,9 and 10 have very good insertion losses (and return loss – inevitably since RL and insertion loss are related) 8 is 01000 in binary so keeping C1, C3,L4 and C5 at the lower extremeity (98% of nominal) and L2 5% higher than nominal will give the best results.

To conclude, here are a list of references,

https://rf-tools.com/lc-filter

https://toroids.info will work out how many coils on a powdered iron core toroid

https://coil32.net Can calculate turns and the Q of an air-cored coil.

http://tonnesoftware.com/elsie.html Download ELSIE from here (look at the other programs too!)

http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-db.htm A simple tool to convert dB to a ratio

https://w7zoi.net/Extract-sp.pdf How to modify an LTspice schematic to show S21 and S11

https://www.everythingrf.com/rf-calculators/return-loss-to-vswr-calculator What it says!

https://www.analog.com/en/design-center/design-tools-and-calculators/ltspice-simulator.html

You can download the LTspice simulator from the link above, its handy for just drawing schematics too!

Another common filter design software program is AADE ( http://www.ke5fx.com/aadeflt.htm ) or the PC software at http://www.alkeng.com/ and there are a number of tools included in the CDs that come with Wes Hayward’s EMRFD book, and the older ARRL or RSGB handbooks.

My personal choices at present are to use the rf-tools website, the ELSIE software or the spreadsheets I have developed and found hese are also reproduced on my blog at https://MI5AFL.blogspot.com and in my google drive (links are in my blog).



Wednesday 18 October 2023

40 - Notes on Low Pass filters for HF use

 LOW PASS FILTERS - notes: see the next post for design methods

We place a filter between two parts of a radio system, for instance between the final amplifier of the transmitter and the antenna. Filters pass some frequencies and block, or do not pass, others. 

Filters are used in several places in Radios, mainly bandpass or low pass types. I will focus on low pass filters (LPFs) here. 

You can think of a low pass filter, a LPF as a black box with the characteristics shown in the diagram on the left. Low frequencies on the left pass are in the passband but higher frequencies (on the right) are in the stopband. A real filter may have a larger transition region. There are also differing time delays at different frequencies and this sometimes matters, also by definition signals arriving at a filter will get a portion of them reflected back - the ones that don't get through have to go somewhere! this means that a transmitter will see a poor SWR at "bad" frequencies. Even the good frequencies may not be a perfect match to 50 Ohms at all frequencies within the passband.

There are half a dozen different types of filter and each is slightly different, two common types are Butterworth filters or Chebyshev filters (type 1) and these have frequency/amplitude characteristics as shown. The Chebyshev has a steeper transition band although it has very slight ripples in the passband, a ripple of 0.1dB means a ripple of about 2% which human ears cannot hear. It matters little if your output power is 100W or 98W at certain frequencies.




Most LPF filters are a ladder type with a simple circuit of series and shunt components. The shunt components have one leg connected to ground. You have either a series inductor or a shunt capacitor first. The design techniques also sometimes give component values that are awkward to use, the typical problem is capacitors that are too small. Again there are design techniques to transform a part of a circuit to an alternative form with more sensible values.

The important thing with any journey is take a few small steps first.

A traditional low pass filter is a "5 or 7 pole ladder type" and is used at the output of a transmitter to reduce the inevitable harmonics of the final stages of the output. Earlier stages are usually kept very linear (class A) whereas the "finals" are usually class AB and do generate some distortion. Harmonics are simple multiples of a frequency so if you transmit 100 watts at 7MHz you are also transmitting some power at the second harmonic of 14MHz and some power at the third Harmonic of 21MHz. There are also other undesirable outputs in your transmitter close to the frequency of your transmitted signal, these are an example of intermodulation distortion (IMD) but filters won't fix this, only increasing bias currents in the amplifier and/or reducing power output will help that problem.

Low pass filters do help with harmonic reduction, but what harmonics matter most? the answer is usually the third and occasionally the second. Some amplifiers generate little energy beyond the third harmonic, those amplifiers with MOSFET transistors are usually better than BIPOLAR types in this regard if they are biased properly and have decent power supplies. 12 volts is a compromise here, MOSFETS prefer 28 volts or higher. Even if a bipolar amplifier generates 4th or 5th harmonics these are far smaller then the third so we rarely consider beyond the third, if a low pass filter reduces (attenuates) f3 it will dramatically reduce f4 and above although at very high frequencies the self capacitance of inductors and the lead inductance of capacitor legs may wreck the intended performance of the filter but it rarely matters.

If the circuit of the power amplifier is a push-pull arrangements then the second and any higher even harmonic are partially cancelled and reduced maybe 15dB or more <I can't find a reference to this figure at the moment>, although the third and any odd  harmonic stays high. This works best if the transistors are matched and the bias currents set carefully.

A word about decibels (dBs) is in order here, these are a convenient way to express multiples or divisors, they express ratios. You add dBs to get bigger ratios. You can calculate this all with tables or formula or use online tools (https://www.redcrab-software.com/en/Calculator/Electrics/Decibel-Factor) but as you only need rough answers you can easily do this in your head. 

Learn that 3dB is a ratio of 2 to 1, and -3dB is a ratio of a half. So if one signal is 3 db stronger than another it is twice as big, if it is 6dB it is four times as big, if it is 9dB it is eight times bigger. Every time you ADD 3dB you DOUBLE the ratio. If an output is -9dB in relation to another output then it is one eighth of its value. These values are correct if we are talking about watts, i.e power ratios. It gets slightly confusing when working with voltages as then 6dB is a doubling of a voltage (and that gives you four times the power since power is voltage squared (x4 in this case). Stick  to power until you get the hang of it.

Sometimes we relate the ratio to a set level of power or other quantity in which case we are NOT talking about dB, we talk about dBm or dBW to see how many times bigger (or smaller if negative) the signal is COMPARED to a milliwatt or Watt.

-3dB is 50%, -3dbm is half a milliwatt

You'll also meet dBV and dbuV sometimes when working with Voltages. For now concentrate on raw dBs, these are simply ratios and have no units. 

If you only remember what 3dB is and that adding 3dB doubles the ratios each time then you can get a rough idea of what we are talking about but it is also useful to know that 10dB is a ratio of ten to one, that 20dB is 100 to 1 and 30dB is 1000 to one. That would nearly do it, but if you notice the pattern above you can work out in your head what higher ratios are, notice what the first digit of the double digit dB numbers above is and count that number of zeros in the ratios. So 50dB would be a ratio of a one followed by five zeros, i.e 100,000 to one. Remember that because as you add dBs you multiply ratios then the same applies in reverse and since 13dB is 3 +10 you can say a ratio of 2 to 1 multiplied by a ratio of 10 to 1 is a ratio of twenty to one. So 13dB is twenty to one..

in Summary - learn:

3dB = 2:1    And also 10dB = 10:1

6dB = 4:1                   20dB = 100:1

9dB = 8:1                   30dB = 1000:1 etc

For more complicated ratios split and add the dB values so 40,000 to 4 to 1 multiplied by 10,000 to one which is 6dB plus 40dB = 46dB.

Back to filters; a pushpull amplifier without any filtering might be 16 dB down on its second harmonic. What does this mean?

Using the rules above, -16dB is forty to one so a fundamental of 100W is generating a second harmonic of just under 2.5 Watts! you could simultaneously make a 40m contact on 100W AND a qrp contact on 20m, You need an LPF!

There is a legal requirement to not generate harmonics, in the States the FCC are quite prescriptive. 

"For transmitters installed after January 1, 2003, the mean power of any spurious emission from a station transmitter or external RF power amplifier transmitting on a frequency below 30 MHz must be at least 43 dB below the mean power of the fundamental emission. For transmitters installed on or before January 1, 2003, the mean power of any spurious emission from a station transmitter or external RF power amplifier transmitting on a frequency below 30 MHz must not exceed 50 mW and must be at least 40 dB below the mean power of the fundamental emission. For a transmitter of mean power less than 5 W installed on or before January 1, 2003, the attenuation must be at least 30 dB. A transmitter built before April 15, 1977, or first marketed before January 1, 1978, is exempt from this requirement."

A quick scan of the 20 page UK Terms and Conditions document of my UK licence conditions found the paragraph below (which is only 20dB! but there may be other UK recommendations I have not yet found.)

"the bandwidth occupied by the emission is such that not more than 1% of the mean power of the transmission falls outside the nominal modulated carrier bandwidth"

The most authoritative reference I came across was an ITU document which is an international standard, it is at 

https://www.itu.int/dms_pubrec/itu-r/rec/sm/R-REC-SM.329-7-199707-S!!PDF-E.pdf

and on page 6 it states for Amateur services operating below 30 MHz on SSB

"43 + 10 log PEP, or 50 dB, whichever is less stringent"

So a 5W transmitter should be below 46.9dB and for anything higher we use the lower value of 50dB so our target should be 50dB  There must be lots of Amateurs generating more than they should. There are two mitigating factors that might help here. If you use an ATU it is probably providing further low pass filtering and a resonant antenna also just might reduce actual harmonic radiation (although a multiband antenna won't and some resonant antennas will radiate on their third harmonic -  a 40m dipole does radiate on 15m.) Also modern transceivers manufactured to sell worldwide usually exceed the ITU standard. (e.g modern rigs from Icom, Yaesu, Kenwoods, Flex etc.,)

So, let us aim for 50dB on the third harmonic and check the second is below 35 to 40dB. This will affect what "order" our LPF must be. The "order" is how many coils and capacitors the filter has. Some filter designs prefer odd numbers. Low pass Ladder filters such as those below can be described as shunt first where the the first component at the input goes to ground (this will be a capacitor for a LPF).


Or the first component can be a series component, always a coil if the filter is a low pass type. The words "Shunt first" or "series first" are used in some texts. The ELSIE program describes series first as Inductor first, if designing  LPFs. It is usually better to use the shunt type as coils have much more loss than capacitors and the shunt type should have less wasted power than the series type.


Most design methods ignore losses but the Q of a typical inductor might be less than 200 whereas a capacitor might have a Q of 20,000,  so it is important to simulate a filter using LTspice (or a similar tool) and see what the final performance should be. The Elsie tool can take Q into account but LTspice offers more options.

In addition the capacitor values may well be awkward values and you might substitute a couple of standard values in parallel to get close to the calculated value, how will this affect the filter? Again LTspice can simulate the modified filter and you can check performance is ok. Inductors are less of a problem as you can adjust the inductance by spreading or compressing windings and measuring the inductance with a NanoVNA or inductance meter. You will need to measure them.

A further reason to simulate a design is that you can ask LTspice to vary every component value according to a tolerance value, if you use capacitors with a 2% tolerance you can see how much the filter deviates from the ideal. You can then swop to 1% or add, subtract or substitute different values. 

Simulation is vital to avoid many hours "tuning" filters after construction. You should also measure your constructed filter with a NanoVNA or similar tool. 

One of the weird thing about different types of filter is that the circuit often stays the same, you change the component values. The circuits above are called ladder filters, you can transform this circuit to a different circuit such as a coupled resonator or a lattice(very rare). You might use a coupled resonator form to get components to more sensible values, but it is best to start off with the simple ladder type.

Here is a list of filter types, the first two are the most common. some have several names.

Butterworth - has a smooth passband and stopband and a gentle slope of 20dB/decade times the order of the filter so a 5th order Butterworth has 100 dB/decade slope. This type was invented in 1930.

Type 1 Chebyshev - steep slope but small ripples in the passband and uneven time delays and return loss (VSWR). The smaller the ripple the better the return loss(the VSWR) in the passband (and the less the loss). if you set the ripple to zero in the design tools,  you get a Butterworth.

Type 2 (Inverse) Chebyshev - steep slope, small ripples in the stop band and uneven time delays 

Elliptic (Cauer, Zolotarev) - steepest slope, ripples in both pass and stop bands. You can convert a Chebyshev to an elliptic by adding some capacitors to the series inductors (or vice versa) these resonant traps add nulls (and peaks) in the stop band and increase the initial slope. It can be useful if the harmonics are near the extra nulls. But it does require extra components.

Bessel(Linear phase) - its time delay is flattest, which is good for digital signals, not very steep.

And there are others but the first four are adequate for most homebrewers with the first two solving nearly all design tasks. There are also modifications to the pure types above, adding an extra capacitor or coil can tweak the performance a bit, so the CWAZ and ZWAZ types are filters that add an extra zero to create a useful null or steeper null than the basic filter. The GQRP club has a table listing values suitable for the ham bands using CWAZ filters (Chebyshev With Added Zero, arguably halfway between a Chebyshev and an elliptical).

Most texts cover the first two but actually having ripples in the stop band can be handy - if they line up with the harmonics, so a 7MHz filter that passes 7 MHz and attenuates 14 and 21 MHz, with an extra "dip" just at 14 (and 21MHZ) can be very effective, this might mean that you only need 5 instead of 7 components and/or they don't have to have accurate tolerances (or they allow a greater temperature or age spread) This means cheaper capacitors. 

However, it can be difficult to use the nulls of a type 2 or elliptical filter efficiently, as we rarely set the corner frequency to an actual hamband frequency. We don't build a 7MHz filter, or even a 7.2MHz filter. Slightly varying the corner frequency is an important optimisation technique once you have decided the order and ripple to use in the design.

There are rules of thumb that suggests setting the corner a bit higher than where we want the passband to stop - maybe 11% higher than the highest frequency you want to pass in a fifth order filter or 9% for a 7th order filter. (see the book "RF Design Basics" by John Fielding ZS5JF ). 

To be fair, normally we only specify the corner as the -3dB point when talking about Butterworth filters, A lot of Chebyshev design tools use a different corner attenuation and this can make it possible to choose a 7.2MHz corner for a 7MHz band LPF. But 7.2 * 2 is 14.4 and the third harmonic is 21.6 so picking the corner frequency of a type 2 can be difficult. 

Other factors are the return loss and the attenuation in the passband, these are also affected by the Q of the components so you usually design a filter, simulate it with Q taken into account and then modify the design iteratively until you get the balance between passband attenuation (Insertion loss), Return loss (SWR) and required attenuation in the stop band.

To design filters; there are half a dozen techniques; I give examples of each later

1 - Use an online calculator such as https://rf-tools.com/lc-filter/ 

2 - Downloadable tools such as ELSIE ( http://tonnesoftware.com/elsie.html ) or spreadsheets such as the superb one at https://axotron.se/blog/tool-for-designing-butterworth-and-chebyshev-filters/ Wes hayward also used to distribute several design tools with his textbooks, sometimes found in the ARRL or RSGB handbook CDs.

3 - Take the values from published designs e.g see https://www.gqrp.com/Datasheet_W3NQN.pdf note these are often used as is, but they are slightly flawed, they keep popping up in designs on the net. Always verify (with Ltspice) designs if yo can.

4 - Use a tabular method to read off values for a 1 Ohm, 1 Radian/Second solution and scale it to your required values. (1 Radian/seconds is a frequency of 0.159Hz). The tables often use g as the symbol to represent C or L values In F or H for Farads or Henries - you need to work out the picofarads and nanohenries for practical designs). 

This is not difficult these days as you can use your own spreadsheet or calculator. We get university students studying electronics to use calculators in exams and expect them to design a filter in less than 10 minutes using tables. However you cannot specify a particular ripple factor for your filter - there are only tables for certain values. There is a 1967 seminal textbook by Zeverev that has scores of pages of tables but most people cherry pick a few examples. I have written a spreadsheet that demonstrates this method. 

5 - Use a calculator and work it all out from first principles, you'll need COS, SIN, COSH, e^x and other exotica. Having worked it all out you can put it in a spreadsheet and LtSpice. I have written a further spreadsheet to do this for Chebyshevs, I use this and then sometimes add a capacitor in LTspice.

6 - there are also old fashioned methods you will sometimes come across - like the 5th order "half-wave" filter idea where you let L and C have a reactance equal to the terminating resistance and the middle capacitor has twice this value. The frequency to calculate the reactances are at the working frequency - the -3dB frequency ends up 40% above this. Slope isn't great but it works and is easy to design. Old texts describe how to design Pi type networks, which are actually a 3rd order ladder filter. To be fair we most often use these to transform impedances and get the low pass filter performance as a bonus. Old Valve amplifiers in articular benefit from these.

LTspice is a vital tool allows you to "prototype" a filter design and experiment with it - as I said above, you can run the simulations multiple times with components that have values within 5% or 2% of the nominal values to see if performance stays acceptable. you can "measure" the calculated insertion loss (attenuation) at the frequency band they are to let through and the attenuation at twice and three times the intended input. You can also calculate the VSWR at the input and see what happens for deviations in the notional 50 ohm input and output. All without wasting solder! You can add resistors to the coils to simulate the Q of real coils and even the Q of capacitors. You can show the power dissipated and use this to choose appropriate cores. 

So, how to design a filter? First, what do we want? - the specifications;

A typical filter, for example at the output of a 40m homebrew transmitter needs 4 things;

1.   It needs to pass 7.0MHz to 7.2MHz with low insertion loss, even -0.1dB represents a 2.3% loss

2.   It needs to suppress 14MHz by 35dB (assuming  a well balanced push pull final amplifier)

3.   It needs to suppress 21MHz by 50dB (to meet the ITU requirements)

4.   It needs to give a good "match" to the filter, a VSWR of better than 1.5 to 1 (return loss of 14dB)

Point 1 is quite subtle - we do not need to worry about frequencies that run from zero Hertz all the way to 7.2MHz - we can vary the position of the peaks of our ripples so that our chosen ham band gets the benefit. This means that even if the maximum ripple is 0.1dB the actual insertion losses for 7.0 to 7.2MHz can be much less, this will also mean good return losses(VSWR) as these are related. Wevary the position of the peaks and troughs of the ripples by making very small changes to the corner frequency. I used 7.2MHz, 7.25MHz and 7.3MHz to experiment with this later.

Point 4 is only true for 7MHz to 7.2MHz where we actually transmit, by definition a lowpass filter will not pass frequencies above its cutoff - they must get reflected back to the sender. By the way to convert a dB loss of power to a percentage you raise 10 to the power of a tenth of the dB value. To calculate return loss from VSWR you divide SWR-1 by SWR+1, take the log and multiply by -20.

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To conclude this part, here are a list of references and bibliography

[1] EMRFD, Experimental Methods in Radio Frequency Design, by Wes Hayward (Author), Rick Campbell (Author), Bob Larkin (Author) I have the first edition, there is a second. This was the most valuable resource, everyone should have a copy of this book! The accompanying CD or DVD is good too.

[2] RF Design Basics by  John Fielding, ZS5JF has a good chapter on Filters.

[3] ARRL Handbook, older editions are more detailed

[4] RSGB Handbook, The older editions are better as they cover the table method, modern versions just say " use online or downloadable tools"

[5] Zveverev's "Handbook of Filter Synthesis" I was able to download a copy from https://ia803101.us.archive.org/20/items/HandbookOfFilterSynthesis/Handbook%20of%20Filter%20Synthesis.pdf so I assume it is out of copyright. It is a Wiley book, dated 1967. This book contains all the tables that more modern books quote. It is a heavy read but a good reference.

[6] Volume 1 and Volume 2 of "Design of Microwave Filters..." A US army text written by G.L.Matthaei, Leo Young and E.M.T. Jones. I actually only read Volume 1 (526 pages) It is a free download as  MYJ-part-1.pdf and MYJ-part-2.pdf from https://www.microwaves101.com/download-area - search for the filename.

[7] "Microwave and RF design IV: Modules" by Michael Steer as a libretext free download from https://eng.libretexts.org/Bookshelves/Electrical_Engineering/Electronics

[8] G3OTK, Richard Harris's 9 part series of articles at Itchen Valley Amateur Radio club  https://www.ivarc.org.uk/uploads/1/2/3/8/12380834/1_filter_article_version_2.pdf


The next post will discuss methods of designing low pass filters

Tuesday 16 May 2023

39 - My END FED Half Wave (EFHW) Antenna

The EFHW is a resonant antenna - used on its fundamental and any higher harmonics. So an EFHW for 80 metres is about 40m long (typically 132 to 134 feet at the usual heights we use in the UK) and is resonant on 3.5, 7, 10.5, 14, 17.5, 21, 24.5 and 28MHz, more or less, and it is therefore a true multi-band antenna. Some bands will be far enough out to need some sort of ATU - either a minor adjustment on a standalone ATU or to be taken care of by the ATU built in to a lot of modern Transceivers. It is possible to tweak it to get good SWR on all the bands without any ATU - but you may have to add a small loading coil 6 feet from the driven end and a physically small capacitor in the middle of the 134 feet. Mine is fine without either - I am happy to pass it through my ATU as I can then see outgoing (and returning) power on the nice big analog meters. Always good to see your signal going out!

These antennas are deceptive - on the one hand they are just half wave dipoles (on their lowest frequency) and radiate like a halfwave dipole - two lobes at right angles to the wire. On the next band up you get an extra pair of lobes but the nulls are not too deep. 

We are well used to driving half wave dipoles in their centre - driving current through low impedances, that suits the transceiver and coax that we have, all fairly normal. Driving a "dipole" at its end involves driving very high voltages and very low currents. We are unused to doing this. It needs special care.

Having one antenna covering all band sounds like a magic antenna! and it can be but there are a few things to watch out for. It needs a transformer to convert 50 Ohm coaxial feeder to the very high impedance found at the end of a half wave antenna. It also needs care to sort out RF coming down the outside of the coax on the outer skin of the conductive sheath - this is invisible and often ignored but it has subtle effects sometimes. RF in the shack can sometimes be detected by "strange goings on" - PC loudspeakers bursting into life, RF burns on your lips or fingers or transceivers that stay in transmit and won't go into receive. However RF in the shack, or on your cable's outside is often missed - it can simple increase the noise level on received signals, create nulls or dead spots by affecting the directional pattern of the antenna or cause interference on nearby things - not always noticed either  - maybe the download speeds on your neighbours WiFi reduces dramatically or nearby mobile phones drop from 3G to 2G. Current on the outside of the coax shield can also pick up local interference and pass it into your receiver, not just as noise but a birdie that desenses the receiver, perhaps noticed, perhaps not.

So as well as a transformer you must fit a choke preferably two  (in the right places) and earth (somewhere). If you don't, your antenna will work. Antennas always work, but performance may be variable, sometimes ok, sometimes disappointing. Do not compromise, do it right!

You can't just add a choke right at the antenna because you will choke the performance out of the antenna! - you need RF current in the antenna wire, that is what sends radio waves out into the ether. 

You need some form of counterpoise and adding either a counterpoise wire (that takes up space) or adding a choke down the feeder a bit (8 feet or so) allows that bit of the feeder to act as a counterpoise. This is a subtle requirement that some hams don't realise. Tread carefully.

This antenna has had little press coverage in the radio amateur antenna text books but there is a growing body of hams who have experimented extensively and report on the internet their successes and failures. Thus there is a well known way of winding the transformers, there is good anecdotal evidence, backed up by experiment, on how to earth and where to choke the antenna. There are also alternative ways to do things, but I report here, the majority opinion. Safety in numbers!

The transformer should have a turns ration of 7 to 1, this makes it an impedance transformer of 49 to 1 as you need to square the turns ratio.  This allows transforming 50 Ohms to 2450 Ohms which is close to what is found at the end of a dipole of ordinary wire and over ordinary earth. Actual impedance might be anywhere from 2000 to 4000 Ohms but a high voltage feed seems to be very forgiving and 49:1 is fine; some have experimented with 8:1 (i.e 64 to 1 impedance) transformation with little difference (except a slight reduction at 10m - it is hard to make a truly wideband transformer).

It is difficult to cover a large number of bands with a transformer and custom and practice is to add a small capacitor across the primary winding to give better performance at the high frequencies. Modern designs that work well use 1,2 or 3 toroids stacked together and with the wire going around the stack. You can superglue cores together - once, you will not get them apart afterwards!

The transformer should use ferrite cores such as the FT240-43 or FT140-43 or types -52 To get good broadband performance. You could use a powdered Iron core if you only want one band maybe two but for best broadband performance you need to use ferrites. Powdered Iron cores are painted and have a "T" prefix e.g T200-6 is painted yellow.  Ferrite toroids have a prefix of "FT" and are unpainted. You will need more than one toroid if using higher power. 

Two versions that are common are two FT240-43 cores superglued together or three FT240-52 cores put together. Using smaller cores can be done but you may be wasting 20% of your power heating the toroid. I use two FT240-43 cores and use less than 100W SSB. This is good from 40m to 10m and "ok" on 80m. The cores are what I have. As well as a Transformer I use two chokes - described in a previous blog post, the first is about 8 feet or 0.05 of a wavelength of my lowest frequency (3.5MHz) down the feeder from the transformer and is 11 turns of RG58 wrapped on a FT240-43 . The second choke is positioned where my coax enters the shack (above my garage). and has 15 turns on a FT240-31. I run a thick copperwire from my ATU and Transceiver to an earth spike just outside the shack. Not Ideal as my shack is above my garage and not close to earth. 

Specific details; I used a primary winding of 2 turns and a secondary winding of 14 turns of 1.0mm enamelled copper wire and a 100pF 3kV capacitor across the primary. I bought the 3kV capacitors on Ebay, they are coloured blue.  The primary was tightly twisted with the beginning of the secondary and then the turns wound onto the cores, a crossover turn halfway around the core allows having the entry and exit wires on opposite sides of the core. the turns were not wound around 100% of the core but two small gaps kept to reduce unwanted capacitance - the aim is to extend the bandwidth of the transformer to reduce losses at 10m. I forgot to photograph mine before erecting it - it is at the top of a 30 foot mast, and the coax and choke are led away from the mast, the top 8 feet of the mast is made of wood but the bottom 23 feet is aluminium, an old sailboat mast. Avoid having your coax near metal if there will be RF on the outside of the coax.

Figure 1 shows the transformer, annotated with notes from Steve Ellingtons youtube channel 



Figure 1: Diagram of the EFHW transformer (From Steve Ellington)



Figure 2: Photograph of Steve Ellingtons Trafo - he used 3 type 52 cores, I used two type 43

This can be tested on the bench by attaching a 2450 non-inductive resistor to the output and seeing what SWR you get from 3.5 to 29.7 MHz. It will not be perfect. Perfect is the enemy of good enough. The resistors must be non inductive and of sufficient power to cope with your SWR measuring device - I used an antenna analyser. An alternative method is to make two transformers and place them back to back with one 50 Ohm port going to the transmitter and the other port going to a 50 Ohm dummy load. 

If you stick to the guidelines I wouldn't bother testing it though - It will work. When you get the antenna built run it temporarily on full power RTTY to give a reasonable amount of power and see how hot it gets after 10-15 minutes. (I don't like to run my transmitter on key down at 100% power). It might be very luke warm as it is probably dissipating 5 Watts. Sealed boxes do allow heat to built up and it can be tricky to drill ventilation holes. It will be fine on SSB or CW, cut your power down a bit if using RTTY or FT8.

The antenna wire can be arranged in a variety of ways, You can place the trafo on the ground and run the antenna wire up a non-conducting pole and then horizontally - an Inverted-L. Do not use a metal pole though. Alternatively place the trafo at the top of the mast and run the antenna wire horizontally, I have used this as my shack is not at ground level. 


Figure 3: My installation - a photo my trafo and choke and the metal/wood mast.

When considering which layout you should consider that any vertical portions of antenna wire will (a) give you useful low angle radiation but (b) possibly pick up local interference as most of this will be vertically polarised. So try and keep the vertical portion away from your house (and your neighbours!) and metal masts of course.

Also you have several choices on earthing. If the transformer is on the ground (within 1 to 2 feet) then run an earthing spike from the transformer ground onto a 3 foot copper plated steel rod (B&Q) driven into the earth (the Americans use 8 foot rods but I think they are hard to get in the UK). Place your choke(s) just as your coaxial cable enters the shack - assuming your feeder runs along the ground from the transformer to the shack. Having the coax on the ground this increases ground coupling and keeps RF on the outside of your coax reduced. 

If the transformer is up in the air then DO NOT PLACE A CHOKE AT THE TRANSFORMER. Measurements of RF current on the actual antenna (and hence your transmitting efficiency) show dramatic drops if you choke at the transformer. You can experiment with a counterpoise of 0.05 Lamda but it I think most people just place their chokes 0.05 lamda down the feeder coax from the transformer - this allows that part of the feeder to act as a sort of counterpoise - allowing the high voltage RF to develop in the transformer. Do not have this part of the feeder close to a metal mast. Conventional counterpoises are usually a quarter wavelength (0.25 Lamda) and these have been measured as less effective, at least in some installations.

Figure 4 shows my SWR plots from 3.5 to 30MHz without tuning and with no extra components added. I just stuck up 134 feet of wire. The grey lines are the amateur bands.


Figure 4: SWR plots taken with a AA-30 Antenna analyser and its PC software.

Note the minimum SWR points are at; 3.74MHz, 6.84MHz, 10.34MHz, 14.15MHz, 17.6MHz, 21.13MHz, 24.7MHz and 28.22MHz and some of these are actually outside the ham bands. I did not bother tuning the antenna as the SWR is still "good enough" in the Ham bands and in any case I always have a ATU in circuit as I like to see its big SWR meters in action when I transmit. The diagrams below show the actual SWR in the various ham bands. 

Figure 5, 10m band, SWR below 2.5:1
Figure 6, 12m band, SWR below 2:1
Figure 7, 15m band, SWR below 2:1
Figure 8, 17m band, SWR 2.6:1 Best to use an ATU, it will work ok without one.
Figure 9, 20m Band, SWR below 2:1
Figure 10, 30m band, SWR below 1.6:1
Figure 11, 40m Band, SWR runs from 2:1 to 3:1 so this needs an ATU (just about)
Figure 12, 80m band, good SWR!

As you can see 17m (18MHz) and 40m(7MHz) are not great, but fine with a little help from an ATU. 60m (5MHz) is still tunable with an ATU but is poor. Still, 5 bands with no ATU and 2 with a little ATU makes this a really useful antenna, I hate beams and prefer subtle, unobtrusive wire antennas.

Figure 13, 60m band, poor - SWR from 5:1 to 6:1, still tunable with an ATU but the ATU will get warm and you will waste some power. Still usable though.
 
The harmonic relationships of the 80m to 10m bands is best at the lowest frequency in each band so to a certain extent this antenna tunes easiest for the CW end of the bands. The recommendation is to adjust the length to give best resonance on the 80m CW band and then remeasure across all bands. You may will not get an SWR of 1.0 (unless you have a corroded cable acting as a dummy load!) but should get under 2:1. The earth conductivity and nearby wires and metal may affect your readings and you may not wish to use a lot of ATU (ATUs always have some loss). 

If you wish to continue to search for that elusive perfect SWR - or at least a better SWR profile then there are two tricks to achieve this.

Adding a small adjustment coil near the driven end  - traditionally 6 turns on a 1" PVC pipe (1.5 micro-henries) placed 78" from the trafo  - this will reduce the SWR minimum for higher bands without affecting lower bands. 

A second adjustment is to add a series capacitor to the centre of the 134 foot antenna wire. This increases the resonant frequency on 3.5 MHz but does not affect the other bands as much. It is custom and practice to use high voltage (3kV) capacitors here despite this being a low voltage point on the antenna for half of the bands covered (the odd harmonics) In fact there will be high currents at this point on 3.5MHz and just less than 10.5MHz 17.5MHz and 24.5MHz. The resonances on the higher harmonics are always lower than the theoretical multiple due to the increasing relevance of real wire that gets thicker proportional to the wavelength and the end effects that real wire possess.

We rarely can buy capacitors that have clear data on their ability to carry high RF currents but have found in practice that high voltage capacitors can cope with high currents, I suppose they have a high quality (sic) dielectric. I personally think you should add a high value resistor across this capacitor to leak away static. It won't affect antenna operation but during thunderstorms and nearby static it may make your antenna a bit quieter. A 10 MOhm resistor should suffice. I have seen no one else mention this so I guess it is ok without it. 

If you can't quite fit 132 feet into your garden there is also a shortened version that uses a coil, this time near the far end of the wire. See Steve's videos for details. You can also make this antenna for 7MHz and get good performance on 14,21 and 28MHz. Both will load up on 6m but the multiple lobes might mean you'll miss some signals and a 6m dipole or vertical is easy to make and takes up little room.

To a certain extent this is not an antenna for beginners, a simple wire dipole does not need much experimentation and will not require much adjustment - provided it is not near bits of metal and has a balun at its centre. (it "works" without it but may be noisier or have subtle RF problems)

The EFHW WILL have RF on its feeder coax, you may need to experiment to get rid of it. Most find the choke at 0.05 of a wavelength is sufficient. If you have lots of metal nearby you may need extra chokes and earth spikes and maybe even counterpoise wire added to the trafo box. Of course the EFHW always "works". Every antenna "works". It is up to you to decide how well it "works". The criteria is not just how many stations you work, the criteria is also how noise gets into your receiver and how much RF you are sending into things nearby. An antenna that allows you to work the world but sets off your neighbours burglar alarm is not a good antenna.

And that is as far as I am going with this antenna. I hope to gather some statistics on its performance using WSPR.  The radiation patterns can be seen using MMANA-GA, although endfed antennas are difficult to model - there is an example included in the software. This antenna has multiple lobes that increase as you move up in frequency so it is not perfect. But it is convenient. Less visibly annoying than a beam and you get 40 and 80m. 

On the other hand the subtle problems with RF current may prove to outweigh the convenience. One author gives a recommendation that EFHWs are ok as temporary or portable antennas but should be avoided as permanent home shack installations. I will persevere with mine for a while and see how it goes. I am also building a low cost cobweb!

References: (checked May 2023)
 Steve Ellingtons youtube videos https://www.youtube.com/@n4lq
 good for antenna current measurements with various earth/counterpoise arrangements
 MMANA-GAL is downloadable from http://gal-ana.de/basicmm/en/  
See also facebook pages: https://www.facebook.com/groups/440907656780779 there used to be a facebook page for Steve Ellington but it has disappeared lately. I don't like facebook!
https://vu2nsb.com/antenna/wire-antennas/multiband-efhw-antenna/ for a negative (but balanced ) review of the EFHW by Basu VU2NSB. Worth reading but don't let it stop you trying one yourself.

73 de Ian McCrum, MI5AFL